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Tokyo Last Licks: Gewgaws and Yukata at Sensō-ji

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The plan was to acquire some last minute gifts for family before hitting the airport. So after our very last organic Peninsula breakfast weirdness, we asked the concierge where to pick up a yukata in Ginza. The anwer was the neighborhood by Sensō-ji, so we added that to the Tokyo plan and off we went. Sadly, we taxied up and metro’ed back down…exactly backwards. (Just don’t even bother with the Ginza line which seems to have been built only for tourists.)

We arrived just as the stalls opened and found everything we were looking for at one stall! godzilla and the wave, red yukata, astro boy…the whole nine yards.

So that meant we had some time to wander the temple grounds before the crowds arrived. And arrive they did.

Romey played the fortune game. You’ll have to ask her about that.

And we witnessed part of a morning ceremony.

Of course the grounds and little gardens are the best part.

Romey and I traded photo taking with a french couple here at the very same spot where the kids and I were in 2019.

Well honey, the honeymoon is over.

Arigatō gozaimasu

Tokyo: Matcha in Hamariku Gardens

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We beat the German tourist buses by 45 minutes. That was a good call.

Crossing the bridge from Ginza. The meeting point of ancient and modern.

This garden was made for hawk hunting during the Edo period. Channel your inner samaurai.

The juxtaposition has the trees all confused.

Snake! Another harmeless one. One for each city.

See? This tree is completely confused.

And so is this one.

Is this nature?

Or the city?

Perhaps the city is natural. 100% Earth stuff.

As a result of our punctuality, we walked right in for a morning matcha at the famous tea house.

And even swapped over to the prime table.

And we made our way back into Ginza on our Hello Kitty quest (part 2).

Tokyo: Mandatory Visit to Tsukiji Outer Market

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Just like you can’t leave New Hampshire without buying mandatory syrup, or get out of the Bermuda Triangle without sacrificing one crewmember, you can’t leave Tokyo without a visit to Tsukiji. Yeah well. It’s a tourist trap, but worth a quick hit.

We emerged from the metro at this building

And then we were in well before the first tourist buses. In fact, we kept ahead of the buses all day by at least 45 minutes. Excellent planning.

If you require dehydrated cephalopds, there are plenty available.

We circled the market until we could no longer stand it, and headed to Hamarikyu on foot.

Tokyo: Zenkō-ji and the Omatesando neighborhood

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In the heart of the city is Zenkō-ji. We arrived as the sun was going down.

We wandered Omatesando on a quest for PJs and underwear. It was a much harder quest than we figured. Eventually Romey had to join a gang to find success. Even the sales tribe at Armani couldn’t help.

Cat alley was on the way.

Varvatos was entirely abandoned. So we put on our own fashion show.

Here is where Romey’s gang induction was carried out.

Finally at the end of the trail there was a great cocktail at Bar Radio (the most civilized bar in Tokyo).

And that famous Penisula ramen.

Finally the Matcha Kit Kats

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In our preparation for training back to Tokyo (and after 4 left turns on a 200 yard trip), we finally found Match Kit Kats in the Kyoto station food basement. The organic grocery store had everything we needed for a solid train lunch.

I had this clearly marked box. And we finally found some cloudy sake!

What was missing though? High quality ice cream! Fortunately you can buy that on the train (in the green car).

Fuji view not included.

Early Morning at Fushimi Inari Taisha

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Can you avoid the crowds at Fushimi Inari Taisha by setting up early breakfast at Vermillion right when it opens? Nope. You can’t. But you just have to see the 1000 gates.

If you arrive before Vermillion opens at 8:30, you can get yourself on the list and take a walk into the temple complex. Very civilized indeed.

The Vermillion mosquito pond…

And then it is time to brave the masses for a look at a few hundred of the thousand gates. Romey wondered what the tori said and didn’t believe me when I told her they were corporate sponsors. LOL. Buddhism is great.

But you know what? It was just too hot (even early in the morning) to walk the 4km loop. So we bailed at the first choice point and circled back down to our morning dogs.

Anyway, it was a great start to the day and a pretty not bad way to say goodbye to Kyoto. I doubt we will return.

We wanted an amulet from a small shrine near Vermillion. But it failed to open. At all. So instead we acted out our zodiac signs.

And then it was back to the very last attainable corner to catch our car.

And a return to the city with police escort.

A Visit Inspired by Bowie: Shōden-ji

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Up in the hills about 20 minutes north of Kyoto, you find a temple shrouded in tranquility.

David Bowie loved this place. It is a respite from Kyoto crowds for sure.


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Lil harmless snake with a hilarious name. Hibakari means (only one day…to live) — a bad ass name for a completely harmless snail eater.

And then it was back down into the maelstrom.

The Temple of Issey Miyake: Kyoto

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Of course you know who Issey Myake is. We visited the original home base. Romey had fun trying on many dresses, giving up, restarting, and ultimately acquiring some gorgeous art pieces.

Now properly draped in famous pleats, Romey has decided to become a tik-tok influencer.

Did you hear how IN soy matcha late is, ladies?

Kyoto: 1000 Buddhas at Sanjūsangen-dō

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No pictures are allowed inside this very old temple, which is too bad…because the 1000 Buddhas are incredible.

We cabbed over “Lets go!” and expected rain…which never came. The cab waited for us to emerge…a good call.

Lots of India here, including vishnu of the many arm symbols. A very deep tie.


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This tree lives way too close to the temple.

Well worth a visit on a steamy day threatening rain…but not delivering.

Panorama Car of the Marine Liner: Coming and Going Across the Seto Bridge Part II

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What kind of breakfast do you need before going backwards across the Seto Bridge? Why you need some Danish breakfast from Little Mermaid, or as the locals call it: Ritorumameidotakamatsuekiten (リトルマーメイド高松駅店). Romey even picked up lunch.

I found a speciual “Autumn bento” that I was supposed to have reserved in advance…but somehow finagled. It was great.

While in Takamatsu, we saw the beginning of the fall festival market.

And then it was back to the Marine Liner panarama car 1, in seats 1A/B headed backwards.

Depart the station

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Cross the bridge.

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Jet skis on the Inland Sea

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And then a taxi to Arima (and Arimasansoh Goshobessho).

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It was a short and easy travel day.  Our big suitcases were already well on the way to Kyoto.

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