brazil | Apothecary Shed

MASP take two

September 23, 2025

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Since our first visit was interrupted by 50,000 protesters, we returned to see the original MASP wing on our last day in São Paulo.

There were cars in the street and commerce was proceeding apace. Late stage capitalism perks along with one or two corporations owning everything.

Curation was interesting in this wing. Hodge podge to be sure (with bad lighting), but some masterpieces on display.

The best stuff was not really from Brazi.

Van Gogh does eye

Magritte does eye

LGBTQ Jesus from the middle ages.

Degas dances in São Paulo as well.

Degas does eye

The brutalist architecture does its thing.

Pinacoteca de São Paulo in the Thunder

September 23, 2025

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What do you do when you are in São Paulo on a thunderous rainy Monday (the day that much is closed)? Seek out the Pinacoteca, and experience some art. Visit both sides with a sprint between rainstorms.

The space is beautifully assembled of old and new in contrast. The curation follows this concept and lacks only professional lighting. Brazil could use some NY light people in all of its museums.

Two views.

The exhibits are spotty, but there are always jewels to be found.

Some of the sculpture is exquisite.

Romey in a pink box.

This is not art!

Channel Emily.

And then brave the rain, walking through the huge unfamiliar trees of Brazil.

Arriving at the Contemporary building just as the power flickers and the clouds unleash.

Enter the late ’60s and the dissolution of dictatorship. Yankees out of vietnam.

BLUM!

Then have a late lunch while you wait for the rain to abate. Banana milk punch for the win.

MASP: Musem of Art of São Paulo Assis Chateaubriand

September 23, 2025

gem art, film, museum, photography art, art museum, brazil, bugs, fim, museum, São Paulo, travel, victoria cribb, video 2 Comments

Getting into the new building provided respite from the crowd of 50,000 protestors. But honestly the curation is somewhat uneven and lacking. Lots of “trying to hard” in our view.

The Moon.

The most interesting piece we saw was called Bugs and was animated by Victoria Crib. Incredible.

Watch the trailer (also on vimeo).

São Paulo on the Street: Avenue Paulista

September 23, 2025

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Don’t expect upscale on Paulista, no matter what the guidebooks say. Instead, expect a street festival with crowsds, music, and the same kinds of vendors you will find in Liberdade.

Like punk bands.

And crews practicing for Rio.

Dress accordingly.

Do note that there may well be 50,000 people in the street protesting! Actually this is rare according to our local friends who say, “They are protesting against a law which would protect members of the parliament and senate against prosecution (to an even greater extent than they are already protected).”

In any case, getting into MASP was non-trivial. And then we were stuck in the new building since the rain caused the museum to shut down its doors and we could not switch buildings.

Esperanza Spalding in Brazil

September 22, 2025

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When we were looking for a concert to attend Saturday night in the São Paulo Spring, we were surprised by the pickings. Not much going on even though the city is huge. A conversation in Brazil with a young show producer told the tale of why, the gist of it being that a post COVID explosion of creativity is drawing to a close and the performers are exhausted. But the constraints led us directly to an exceptional treat—Esperanza Spalding in Brazil.

Magical.

We did require some help from our new friend Christian (a USP fresh out Ph.D.) who was able to use the local shotgun app to get tickets. I tried that earlier from the US with no luck since the app required a Brazilian citizen ID number.

In a small world phenomenon, we ran into Fabio Kon and his wife while waiting in line to get into the venue.