New Zealand is a wilderness paradise, and Milford Sound is the best of the best. We set out to do some water-based adventure on one of our days. It went something like this.
We started way early. So early, in fact, that the only person who had breakfast was me. The morning rendezvous at the water’s edge was set for 8:00am. The boat that Descend runs is pulled out of the water to load and unload which is kind of interesting.
The sand flies were out in force in the early morning (and repellent, natural or otherwise, just failed to work). Nevertheless, we tried on our 8 mil wet suits just by the boat on a tarp laid out over the dusty gravel and hopped on the boat while it was still in the parking lot. Besides the 4 of us, there were two other divers, one of whom was completing a dry suit certification, and 3 crew members. This was Jack’s first dive!
The water in Milford Sound is cold, so three layers on the torso is mandatory. We looked like a family of space people.
Underwater, Milford Sound is interesting and unique. Many of the species you can see above 22 meters are usually only found much deeper. Because of the ecology of the sound which includes lots of brackish fresh water from the glaciers, black coral has been thriving for centuries and is a sight to behold.
Here are some videos shot by Ben Szulak who was diving in a dry suit. Thanks for sharing Ben!
We completed a first dive near seal rock. I had real trouble with my bouyancy and was (as usual) the first diver up. 8 mil suits are floaty and sinky at the same time and the saw tooth was too much for me to control. Eli spent another 15 minutes below.
Next, Jack did an assisted dive.
Then we moved on to a second dive location. Eli dove with the dry suit crowd. I did an assisted dive with an instructor that was just incredible. Nothing like worrying about nothing to preserve air.
We passed by the Stirling waterfall on our way in.
We just had time for a touristy lunch at the Milford Cafe and a walk by the water before it was time to Sea Kayak. We were a bit concerned about the wind, but in the end showed up to don more “gear belonging to other people.” Our guide Ben was a talkative, high energy guy.
Rosco’s sea kayaks take you out on a power boat and you paddle back home. Our crew included two french canadians. We started just past the waterfall at the “usual spot,” and were soon back at the Stirling Falls with time to kayak under them.
Oh, and all of this happened on Thanksgiving day. Our “turkey” dinner was postponed until 10pm when we had lemon, butter, and garlic chicken at Knobs Flat.